After I got settled into my hotel, I went out to explore Krakow’s Jewish quarter, located just south of the city in an area called Kazimierz. Kazimierz used to be a separate city from Krakow prior to 1940, but Krakow has grown, and Kazimierz is now part of the larger city. In 1940, over twenty-five percent of the population Kazimierz was Jewish. Now, only a remnant remains of what was once a thriving center of Jewish life and culture. The Synagogues of Kazimierz, the seven that remain, are primarily museums to the history of the Jewish community that once thrived here. Only one is still functioning as a house of worship, the Remuh Synagogue, named after Rabbi Moshe Isserles (c.1525-1572).
As luck would have it, tonight, this third night of Chanukah, there was a celebration going on in Kazimierz, the lighting of a large, twelve foot tall Chanukiah, a special Menorah used to commemorate the 8 days of Chanukah, sponsored by Chabad of Kazimierz. The celebration had been postponed until tonight due to inclement weather, but this evening the rain held off for the most part, except for the occasional drizzle. There were perhaps 40 or 50 people braving the damp, cold night to be part of the celebration. I mingled with the crowd and spoke with a number of people, including the father of the local Chabad Rabbi, himself a Chabad Rabbi, originally from the US with family ties to Atlanta, but now living in Jerusalem. One fellow with whom I tried to strike up a conversation spoke only Polish, French, and some Russian; no English, no German, no Hebrew, so all we could really do was smile at each other and nod. But the bottom line is, my spirits were lifted as a result of the Chanukah party in Kazimerz. Tomorrow is another matter. For now I will be content to savor the spirit of Chanukah. For those of you who think of Chanukah as the “Jewish Christmas,” please follow this link for a quick lesson from Judaism 101… http://www.jewfaq.org/holiday7.htm.
After the group dispersed, I went into a local neighborhood pub. After all, when traveling in a foreign country, especially if it is the first time being there, isn’t it obligatory to sample the local brew? (I think this must be a guy thing.) I asked which Polish beer is the best. Someone said Tyskei, and someone else said Zyweic, so I tried them both. Though both beers were pretty good, I have to say the Zywiec was definitely my favorite. I’m glad that didn’t start a fight. Some people can be a little meshuganah about their beer.
Well, it has been a very long day, and I’m glad I’m able to end it on a positive note. Tomorrow, another emotional roller coaster ride. Stay tuned for more commentary following my visit to Auschwitz.
-Wayne
